External Door Instructions
Handling and Storage
Doors should always be stored flat, ideally in a similar environment to where they are to be installed.
They should be protected from damp and dirt and located in an area where they will not be damaged during storage.
Doors should not be fitted where extremes of temperature or humidity may occur. A building which has been recently built or renovated, using processes such as concreting, plastering, rendering, etc., will have a very high humidity level until dried and ventilated.
Gentle internal heating and good ventilation of the building will greatly reduce the problem. Doors should remain in their packaging until ready for preparation before hanging
Installation
When trimming a door to fit, 12mm can be removed from each edge of the door to a maximum reduction of 24mm in both the height and width. Any reduction must be removed evenly from each edge of the door.
External doors must have a weather bar or rain deflector fitted to ensure that water runs away from the face and bottom edge of the door.
A drip bead should be fitted to prevent moisture ingress to the top edge of the door, e.g. fitted to the door frame head.
Three hinges should be used to hang the door. Stable doors require 4 hinges and a weather seal fitted between the 2 leafs. All hardware screw holes should be pre-drilled to prevent splitting of the timber.
Locks should not be fitted adjacent to door mid-rails where the joint may be compromised.
Some glass styles are smooth on one side and obscure on the other: Please check that the obscure glazed faces of multiple doors are orientated in the same direction, e.g. if installing 2 glazed doors side by side.
In areas of severe exposure, external doors should be protected by a canopy or porch in addition to recommended finishing.
Finishing
Bare timber doors will require a light sanding prior to finishing.
Take care when finishing glazed doors to ensure that the finish does not go on the glass. Secondary protection such as masking tape may be necessary.
All timber surfaces must be given a total of three coats of high performance wood- stain or paint. It is important to apply the treatment to the door before final installation.
When applying the finish pay particular attention to sealing the timber end grain on the tops and bottoms of the doors and any grooved areas within the door design: It is recommended that 2 coats of an end grain sealant are used on the top and bottom edges of the door prior to final finishing of the door. Ensure that all lock, letterbox and hinge cut-outs are also finished to the same degree as visible surfaces.
Failure to treat all the timber surfaces may lead to excessive changes in moisture content which will cause the timber to shrink or swell, possibly causing splits and distortion.
Clear translucent coatings are not recommended as the timber may discolour through UV degradation.
Pre-Finishing Summary
DO
- Use a “High Build” tinted wood-stain or good quality exterior paint
- Apply a minimum of 3 coats to all faces and edges (in severe exposure conditions apply extra coats)
- Apply the same number of coats equally to the face, edge, lock, letterbox and hinge cut-outs.
- Apply at least 1 coat immediately upon unpacking the door
- Check that paint or stain manufacturers’ product is suitable for veneered/ engineered doors
DON'T
- Use thin penetrating seals, oils, wax, dyes, preservatives or hard, brittle varnish finishes.
- Apply stains or paints in damp / wet weather
- Use thinned/ mixed paints or stains
- Mix incompatible products, e.g. paint on one door face and stain on the opposite face.
To ensure the long life and appearance of the door, all coatings should be washed down annually to remove any surface pollution. Periodically check the finishing treatment and touch up as necessary. Fully retreat the door every few years as required and depending on degree of exposure.
Note: Storing, installing or finishing the product in a manner not detailed in these instructions may invalidate the warranty.